Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Best of London Fashion Week
VIDEO: Marios Schwab FW11
by Grace Gordon
If Marios Schwab wasn’t a fashion designer, he might have become a strict schoolmaster. His strong will would translate just as well in the classroom as on the runway. Schwab’s collections are consistently controlled – he comes across as someone who rarely lets their hair down. His vision for fall extends his disciplined approach to Spartan-like ensembles and austere beauty. There was no excess on his runway, but excess is tantamount to distraction for a philosophical designer like Schwab.
Beautifully cut leather dresses marched down the runway on the backs of models who held themselves rigidly like style soldiers. Nipped waists kept the silhouettes feminine, but the clothes had an androgynous feel to them. Brogue patterns enhanced the form of the dresses. Smart rows of pearls studded along the shoulders and neckline of the outfits -which was an interesting detail to add to all the leather and severity. The reason all of this worked together was that the stripped-down minimalism of Schwab’s runway contained clean, artful ensembles that would enhance any woman’s wardrobe. It’s easy to see how these nipped-waist, harness-strapped, and puffy-quilted details would emphasize and flatter the female form.
