For his last collection at Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier presented (against a backdrop of real live horses) a hard, sleek collection that was Old West meets fetishistic dark side. If you plan on spending a day at the races, or staying home on the range, a head-to-toe black leather ensemble would probably not be your go-to outfit, but this opening look was somehow still part of the coherent whole. There was a heavy equestrian influence in the collection. For a house known for its luxurious leather goods, there was excellent use of leather for the ensembles. For the non-leather outfits, there were a lot of sophisticated ladylike choices like slouchy blazers and draped blouses. Gaultier crafted the looks to create an air of nonchalance: a model casually walks down the runway with a riding crop, another has a jacket slung casually over her shoulder. Despite the leather basques, multi-pocketed leather shorts, and criss-crossing cage belts, the collection still felt distinctly like Hermès. It had polish and poise, and also a very Gaultier hint of naughtiness.