When the Beat movement was birthed at Columbia University in 1944, I bet they never thought they’d end up influencing one of the city’s future top designers. DKNY’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection cites influence from both the beat movement and “poetic rebellion”. Donna Karan launches with her signature all-black ensembles (down to the tights, shoes, and clutches), but mixes in enough croc prints that the repetition of monochrome ensembles doesn’t become stale. The flip of the tulip-hem on several of her skirts provided a flirty counterpoint to the stern shade of the overall outfit. Karan runs the risk of playing it a little too safe by refusing to stray far from the DKNY gene pool. But, a few voluminous mohair coats in the shade of pewter and maroon save this collection from its well-established (and therefore slightly predictable), roots.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway