Monday, February 21, 2011

Best of London Fashion Week

Antonio Berardi FW11

by Grace Gordon

Antonio Berardi insists that you wear white after Labor Day. Why not? His beautiful, austere, white dresses were tempting enough for us to take him up on it. In addition to the white dresses, his latest collection is filled with surprising details (especially given that this is his first foray into daywear). Think gigantic outsized lapels, multitudinous layers of gathered and puckered hems, and giant fur coats.

This is a very bold and visually appealing collection that features a lot of graphic touches. For instance, a giant black diamond printed against a stark white shift dress really catches the eye. A black, long-sleeved, body-skimming dress gets a Mod pick-me-up when outfitted with bold rectangular patches of white. Luminous evening gowns sparkled with a liquid shimmer, and a sheer lace skirt gives us a cheeky peek at what’s underneath. Lace paneling added sexy detailing to several dresses. Two long black capes took to the runway, in two completely different styles. The first was a black version of the classic Little Red Riding Hood dress: simple and floor sweeping. The second was a studded affair that was tough and cool. The outerwear here was luxurious and well-appointed.

This collection had a richness and depth to it that demands recognition. Berardi’s experiment with daywear has been declared a success, resulting in a sophisticated range of modern, stylish pieces.