by Grace Gordon

Peter Pilotto showed a rebellious collection that blurred the lines between fashion and sociological commentary. Sometimes, the commentary weighed more heavily than the fashion as influences from global turmoil were reflected on stage. Shalwar-kameez and dhoti-cut suits met with digitized, tribal prints for a look that was wholly unique. Beyond the political realm, the collection revolved around 3-quarter coats, tunics, elongated suit vests, neutral-colored block blazers that reached to the calf, and wide-leg pants. Fluid fabrics gave the clothes lots of graceful movement. Unfortunately, the draped busts of the tunics and dresses looked slightly awkward, as if they were not intended to reveal so much.

It was the blurry prints in repeating chain link checks that were the strength of the show. Pilotto mixed and matched them together, achieving some very unique high-contrast ensembles. One of the best looks was a side slit tunic printed with black-and-white stripes that ran in different directions, which made the tunic look like an optical illusion. Towards the end of the show, Pilotto revealed several liquid silk dresses that clashed with the rest of the pieces in the show, but were so beautifully draped and tailored that it didn’t matter.