Monday, February 21, 2011

Best of London Fashion Week

Richard Nicoll FW11

by Grace Gordon

Richard Nicoll showed an innovative collection at London Fashion Week. Different accounts of the backstage atmosphere convey that there was a frantic, last-minute, correction to the collection made by Nicoll. He stripped the clothing of all embellishments and simplified the overall look of the show. It’s hard to imagine how different this collection would have been if it had been decked out in feathers and embroidery. Instead, the minimalist approach works in his favor, and the more unusual cuts and tailoring choices were able to be the center of attention instead.

For fall/winter 2011, Nicoll metamorphosed models into moths. Trailing trains on the backs of shirts and dresses enhanced the garments with a hi/lo aspect that mimicked the wings of a moth. Other dresses came decorated with the words “Euxoa,” “Akis,” and “Acronita” – which are the Latin names for moth genera. Stiff ruffled collars, more organic than Victorian, reminded one of moth pupae.

His experimentation with levels was a unique, avant-garde approach. For instance, one look that featured what appeared to be a tunic with a train over matching pants was actually a one-piece ensemble so unique that its style does not have a name. Unexpected contrasts of colors like soft grey and pale lemon yellow created off-kilter, but highly sophisticated, pairings. In addition to this, the designer also played with athletic wear aspects by incorporating silk baseball jackets and drawstring details. Nicoll showed an unusual, but highly arresting and thoughtful collection that is sure to become a favorite of haute couture fans everywhere.