Saturday, February 26, 2011

Best of Milan Fashion Week

Emilio Pucci FW11

by Grace Gordon

The vivacious Pucci runway this season owes its critical success to its overt sexuality. This collection came across more like boudoir costuming at times, befitting Dolly Parton’s character in The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas or a Parisienne burlesque dancer at Moulin Rouge. Plunging necklines were met with shapely bosoms – accentuated by the tight corset bustiers that held it all in place.

The classic Pucci print was reinterpreted for the fall runway in a highly crafted and beautiful version that was a radiant and intricate as a butterfly wing, but much, much sexier. Silhouettes were body conscious, and very feminine, and nipped the waist into an hourglass shape. Loden skin mimicked suede and came in a variety of brightly colored Western cut blazers with puff shoulders, while fur outerwear added depth and richness to the collection. A glittering sequined dress, shown early in the show, was so exquisite that it drew applause from the audience. This show also provided great use of color – little jewel-toned accessories were used to enhance the high-concept style of the ensembles. Fedoras, when pulled low over the face, added an aura of “clandestine affair.” This was a racy collection, more daring than Pucci designer Peter Dundas has attempted in the past. For prints and dresses that get your pulse racing, Pucci has got you covered (or uncovered, depending on how you look at it).