Saturday, February 26, 2011

Best of Milan Fashion Week

Jil Sander FW11

by Grace Gordon

Designer Raf Simons has such a refined, mature sense of style that he really allows the clothes to take center stage. This is not a collection cluttered with a myriad of different bags, shoes, hairstyles or accessories. Instead it is streamlined and controlled to the point of being simplistic. The Jil Sander FW11 collection was orchestrated to fall into two categories: sleek, bright skiwear, and voluminous, oversize coats and dresses. Surprisingly, the two categories complimented each other more than they contrasted.

First down the runway was a series of black ensembles. Black served as a backdrop to sharp neon squiggly patterns that danced across the bust and down the sleeves of ski sweaters and vests. Next came cocoon coats with bowed out sleeves that created an oval silhouette. Wide cut dresses in silky florals and touchable teal velvets were a fetching, democratic touch – the kind of dress shape that can be worn by most body types. The maxi dress got a welcome update when cut loosely with deep pockets for the kind of hip, effortless look that so many women crave. A high-waist, sack-cloth skirt looked studious when paired with a simple, button-down blouse. Down-filled skirts fell into the aforementioned “voluminous” category, as well as the many swing coats and trapeze cuts that Jil Sander showed. Simons topped off several looks with graphic print swimmer’s caps, which created a bold, sporty style statement. This was a graceful, well-though out collection that appeals to our desire for good style to be easy. At Jil Sander this season, it was.