Friday, February 25, 2011

Best of Milan Fashion Week

Versace FW11

by Grace Gordon

Donatella Versace brings it home this season, both literally and figuratively. For the first time since Gianni Versace’s tragic death in 1996, she has chosen to open his Via Gesu residence in Milan for her latest womenswear collection. But, the trip down memory lane doesn’t stop there. Versace’s unabashed tour of their past, their brand and their legendary creator, Gianni Versace, made this nostalgic show one for the history books.

Donatella chose to stay true to the message of the legendary brand, but also incorporated her renowned rock and roll aesthetics into the show. Case in point: Duran Duran was chosen to sit next to Anna Wintour on the front row. The key element of the show lay in the blown-up curlique-and-tulip graphic prints which transmitted the heritage of the house (the curlique print helped make them famous) and respect for Gianni (tulips were his favorite flower). Though this was an emotional touch, the bold, modern graphic prints looked right on message with fall’s best trends.

Versace also incorporated beautiful jewel tone shades into their sleek ensemble selection. Curve-hugging dresses and toppers accentuated the female form, while daring one-shoulder garments transmitted a message of powerful femininity. There were a few very sexy fitted leather-blazer-and-skirt combinations in the mix. Military jackets with rows of smart brass buttons made up some of the best day looks. The buttoned-up austerity of some of the outfits, like the military jackets, stood in welcome contrast to the brooding sexiness of the rest of the collection. Donatella saved the best for last, ending the show with a parade of breathtaking gowns with sweeping feather trains.

If Gianni was alive to witness how far his brand has come and how devoted his sister is to keeping the spirit of Versace alive, he would be so proud.