Monday, February 14, 2011

Best of New York Fashion Week

Preen FW11

by Grace Gordon

Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi once said that “the starting point for each new collection is the previous collection.” This season there was deviation from the previous collection, but it was still in keeping with what they’ve done in prior seasons.

It is impossible to mention Preen without discussing their unswerving loyalty to the concept of deconstruction, and once again, we saw deconstructed menswear played up with sharp patterns and impeccable tailoring. Even though Preen adheres to strict design ethos, their collections are never stale. This is just such an example of limitless creativity within the bounds of narrow design structure. Their incredible talent for this kind of creation has won them the respect of their peers, and for good reason. No one can do what Preen does.

For this collection, the devil was in the details, and the details were aplenty. The prints were fantastic – showcasing stacked blocks loosely aligned with bursts of flowers and star shapes. They came in fantastic colors reminiscent of midcentury modern art, and bloomed beautifully across silk blouses and nubby sweaters. Amoeba-like appliqués floated ethereally across tops and dresses, while wooly clusters trailed along the front of a skirt, or around the elbows of a sweater. Bishop sleeves and big shoulders emphasized the arms, while asymmetrical hems and center slit cuts emphasized the legs. These wonderful touches gave a playful feel to otherwise refined and contained looks.