Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Best of Paris Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen FW11

by Grace Gordon

Sarah Burton has thrown herself, body and soul, into the McQueen label and it has paid off, royally. Her “Ice Princess” themed fall/winter collection was a study of contrasts in beauty: soft and hard, white and black, dark and light, high and low.

The frothy, furry, sleek ensembles shown in black and white, harnessed by caged halters and sewn-up boots are the buildup to a climactic ending. This is a show that escalates the drama that starts simply and builds until you can barely take it anymore. The Ice Queen’s court is robed in warm furs, but still bears the harsh elements in rigid silhouettes, corseted waists and full skirts. The penultimate look in this collection is as stunning and dramatic as a wedding gown, with a gathered and tucked full white gown. The final look, the Ice Queen herself, is revealed in a heart stopping, billowing ivory skirt that undulates like a sea anemone. The bodice is skintight and intricately beaded and embellished for a look that is far more romantic than it is austere.

Burton, once again, pays homage to McQueen’s designs – his deft tailoring, his minute attention to detail, his signature shock and awe – but reigns in his ferocity in exchange for something more regal and refined. Still, there is enough reverence in this collection to break your heart.