Monday, March 7, 2011

Best of Paris Fashion Week

Celine FW11

by Grace Gordon

Phoebe Philo’s name has become synonymous with disciple in the fashion world (there is no chaos at her shows, everything is calm and controlled), and the adjective is also befitting of her latest collection. With signature minimalism, Philo embraces crisp cut corners and impeccable, sparse tailoring. Her cited influence? The interior of luxury automobiles.

The contrast of smooth lines and rough fabrics gave the collection textural appeal. Outerwear dominated the Celine runways in bulky silhouettes (that maintained their shape via darts in the back). Blocky graphic chevron print sweaters were paired with sleek trousers for a sophisticated every day look. Woodstained suit separates were an interesting take on wood-paneled vehicle interiors, but ultimately weren’t commercially viable. Patchwork fur and a dress in alternating earth-hued panels exemplified Celine’s fall message of luxe simplicity. An intimidating preacher’s coat lined with shocking crimson stole the show in a daring, but simple cut. The hard vs. soft aspect of this collection is Philo’s watermark, but leaves one wondering how many more seasons she can keep it up.