Monday, March 7, 2011

Best of Paris Fashion Week

Givenchy FW11

by Grace Gordon

A panther’s roar was a strange thing to hear at the beginning of the Givenchy show at fashion week, but it all made sense when the models stalked down the runway in panther-inspired regalia. Passing underneath an archway of funereal violet flowers, the mostly stark and somber ensembles were made curious and playful by bold panther-head prints. Equestrian hats came topped with panther ears, and several models wore exaggerated fuzzy-framed glasses to drive the point home. All that was missing were the tails.

Where Ricardo Tisci was coming from with this collection is a mystery, until we remove the panther element and deal only with the clothes. Without panthers, we are left with a wearable proto-goth collection in keeping with Tisci’s bold designs from previous seasons.

The outfits on the runway ran from severe to risqué as snug suits were matched with completely sheer skirts (save for the opaque border of panther faces printed near the hem). Velvet skirts and 1980s sweaters with embroidered floral wreaths gave this collection a throwback feel. Tisci layered his looks with peplum hems, silk baseball jackets, and bomber coats; while silk fabrics and brocade prints brought a rich luxury to the garments. Though this collection lacked true cohesion, it made up for this lack with extreme confidence and interesting details.