Sunday, March 6, 2011

Best of Paris Fashion Week

Haider Ackermann FW11

by Grace Gordon

All eyes were on Haider Ackermann this week since the rumors of his possible new position as creative director of Dior circulated through PFW. He did not disappoint. In fact, he showed perhaps his best collection to date. The immense, immediate critical success of his fall/winter show rested almost entirely on Ackermann’s ability to create the “new” out of something as simple as draping technique.

This somber and sophisticated collection was so perfect that not a single tuck or hem was off the mark. The long, loose shapes of the clothes were tempered by a tornado of tailoring that wrought them into exquisitely draped shapes that all but took the breath away. The layering was perfect, allowing just the right amounts of fabrics and skin to peek through. The inspiration for the outermost layers of the outfits came from the Middle and Far East (the djellaba and kimono robe, respectively), but this didn’t stop the looks from being entirely modern. Waists were corseted by gigantic belts, and surprisingly sensual details were found in the cut-out space of skirts and tops that gave us a glimpse of hip here, a glimpse of thigh there. There was something special going on at this show, and if Ackermann is queuing for Galliano’s old job, he may have just landed it due to this collection.