Saturday, March 5, 2011

Best of Paris Fashion Week

Lanvin FW11

by Haleh Nia

Alber Elbaz is one of the most delightful and intriguing designers working in the fashion industry today. His obvious and contagious enjoyment of his craft is transmitted straight into each of his collections. With a less serious approach to fashion, Elbaz is responsible for bringing fun back to couture. That is why it’s surprising to note that the beginning of his fall/winter 2011 collection was a little more melancholy than to be expected.

Set against the backdrop of a weeping willow, models processed down the runway to a soundtrack of Leonard Cohen. The first half of the show produced looks that were polished and minimalistic with nary an embellishment in sight. The silhouette was crisp and clean – even a little starchy (this could be due to the use of notoriously difficult gazar silk).

This restrained sense of style helped immensely when Elbaz showed a full fur dress and a full leather dress; it was only with impeccable, streamlined tailoring that such a look could come off as sophisticated. As the show progressed, the looks lightened up and Elbaz eased off the Southern Gothic look entirely. Models came decked in more finery like lace-filled cutout dresses, exaggerated shoulders and hips, and bold statement necklaces. Headwear was an important accessory in this collection with looks that ranged from high-noon hats to flowered headpieces. The show ended with fun party dresses in bright shades of pink and citrus. Even with an atypically heavy-handed start, this collection still stood out as among the best at Paris Fashion Week.