Sunday, September 18, 2011

London Fashion Week Coverage

Emilio de la Morena Spring 2012

Perhaps they should have let Emilio de la Morena design the costumes for Black Swan. His SS12 collection showed clothing in the vein of the moody, macabre film that made ballet risqué (and almost frightening). Though not explicitly cited as reference, there was a definite ballerina-gone-awry feeling to this collection, particularly with the repeated silhouette of the fitted bodice and flouncy skirt.

De la Morena explored and perfected this singular look through a variety of design techniques. Where a bust would be bunched and gathered on one dress, it would be v-necked and plunging on the next. Thinking of this in geometrical terms, the top portion was consistently “V” shaped, whereas the skirt portion resembled an upside-down “V” – constituting an hourglass shape on every model. De la Morena also experimented with a trippy, psychedelic print that dripped organically down the front of skirts and across the top of dresses. A full, prim skirt was really anything but when side panels cut away to reveal hips in all their naked splendor. It’s for this reason the collection had the repressed sexual throbbing of Black Swan, and only on the surface appears to be dainty and sweet.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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