Monday, September 19, 2011
London Fashion Week Coverage
Richard Nicoll Spring 2012
Richard Nicoll must feel that he singlehandedly keeps London Fashion Week not only relevant, but ahead of the curve. His thought-provoking collections are often the starting point for a discussion among the style elite because a Nicoll runway is fodder for stimulating conversation.
Nicoll’s influence this season was L’Enfer, an unfinished 1964 film by Henri Georges Clouzot. This choppy, expensively shot film was a surfeit of surrealist images that moved between color and black-and-white. One of the iconic stills from the film features the lead actress, Romy, with blue skin (the film featured a lot of painted faces and strange lipstick shades – which Nicoll mimics in one look). This shade of blue pops up on the Nicoll runway, along with shades from the palest robin egg to the darkest cobalt. There is also an undeniable Lynchian influence on the Nicoll runway, inspired by Twin Peaks’ mysterious main character, Laura Palmer.
The constrained femininity of this collection comes from its strict lines, hoop skirts, 60s silhouettes and stiff materials (like plastic). Though the pajama looks that end the show are a bit of a stretch, the rest of the collection is interesting enough to make up for any misfires.
written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway
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This Week’s Highlights
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