London Fashion Week Coverage

Acne Fall 2012

The mind often operates in clearly delineated dualities: subject/object, foreground/background, depth/surface. It is in the contrast of the human body and dress that we find opportunities to manipulate the silhouette, to add dimension to a studied surface. On the Acne Fall/Winter 2012 runway, Jonny Johansson so effortlessly manipulates and distorts the human body though dress that this is almost an exercise in performance art. Inspired by photographer André Kertész, the composition of subject and object are deftly maneuvered into new and startling silhouettes. Slick leather coats are cut in such a way as to cause the arms to jut from the body, while puffy jackets are cut into strange shapes by severe belts.

There are outfits on this runway that defy adequate explanation. A giant quilted leather sweater (yes, quilted leather sweater) is worn underneath a deformed denim jumpsuit/romper with wide straps. What is the name for this outfit? Challenging. Bright acid green and masculine burgundy are some of Johansson’s go-to colors, but he also blends in some rainy day neutrals with the rest of the looks. The odd shapes and cartoonish blunt lines of these outfits almost lift a page from Ghesquière’s Balenciaga futurism, but they are saved from copycat status by the weird textures they’re done up in. This might be a hard collection for the typical consumer to swallow, but the fashion savvy will be all over this – neatly folding in this pleasingly odd collection with their more inspired street-style looks.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

This Week’s Highlights

{Runway}

SS12 Runway Report Get in the Game	SS12 Runway Report Tribal Instincts	Trend to Try Streaked Hair	Fall 2012 First Look PFW's Best Bags and Shoes	Fall 2012 First Look MFW's Best Bags and Shoes
Fall 2012 First Look LFW's Best Bags and Shoes	Fall 2012 First Look NYFW's Best Bags and Shoes	SS12 Runway Report Plastique Fantastique	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Elie Saab Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Miu Miu Fall 2012
Paris Fashion Week Coverage Louis Vuitton Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Alexander McQueen Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Valentino Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Hakaan Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Chanel Fall 2012
Paris Fashion Week Coverage YSL Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Chloé Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Giambattista Valli Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Stella McCartney Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Givenchy Fall 2012
Paris Fashion Week Coverage Kenzo Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage John Galliano Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Hermès Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Loewe Fall 2012	Paris Fashion Week Coverage Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2012

{Videos}

First Look Lanvin Loves De Rigo	Behind the Scenes Spring 2012 “Meet Me Halfway" Shoot	This Month’s Buzz Longchamp 'Oh My Bag' Video	First Look Boucheron Quatre Black Edition	SF Exclusive Toujouri SS12 Behind the Scenes Video
Behind the Scenes Spring 2012 “Ain’t She Sweet” Shoot	SF Exclusive The Making of Dior's Diorissimo Bag	Behind the Scenes Estée Lauder for Anthony Vaccarello at PFW	Insider Access Louis Vuitton - Marc Jacobs Exhibition	Chanel Makeup Beauty Class
Exclusive Video Gucci 'Forever Now' Campaign ft. Charlotte Casiraghi	Behind the Scenes Hogan by Karl Lagerfeld FW12 Campaign	Videophiles With Tommy Ton	Look Forward to Chanel Makeup Beauty Class	Backstage Pass Chanel Spring 2012 Couture
“It” Bag 101 The Making of Marc Jacobs' Iconic Bags	Obsession of the Month Cartier Love Stories	First Look Aiisha Ramadan 'Le Pouvoir de la Poudre'	Behind the Scenes Winter Kate Spring 2012 Campaign	Behind the Scenes The Art of Collaboration by Bottega Veneta
Behind the Scenes Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Campaign ft. Elizabeth Hurley	First Look Face to Face: KARL by Karl Lagerfeld	Read of the Month Dior Couture by Patrick Demarchelier	First Look KAGE Spring 2012 Collection	First Look Louis Vuitton Resort 2012 Shoe Collection