Sunday, February 19, 2012

London Fashion Week Coverage

Aquascutum Fall 2012

When Aquascutum first started, it was a menswear brand that tailored very specifically to the military, with an emphasis on outerwear. After Joanna Sykes took the helm of the brand as creative director, she lightened the outlook and the design ethos of Aquascutum. However, this season sees a return to the historical roots of the brand, as Sykes embraces “Dressing the Powerful” on the Fall/Winter 2012 runway. However, the “powerful” have little to do with military leaders or business moguls. Instead, Sykes clarifies the thesis by stating that this collection was for powerful women, who carry their provocateur status close to the chest – like a military secret. Her inspiration came, more directly, from “A Tarantino woman, dark, provocative, and dangerous”.

The clean, utilitarian lines of Aquascutum were not compromised by this direction. Instead, the menswear and military inspired ensembles were low-slung and easeful, imbued with a casual air of cool detachment. These are the kinds of clothes Sykes’ “powerful woman” might wear in which to first dispatch an enemy, and then grab a martini with friends. This collection was heavy on the leather: streamlined motorcycle jackets, bonded leather strips accenting sleeves of blouses and outerwear, slick gloves and patent boots were among the strongest looks. With a palette of dark teal, powder blue, olive, beige, white and black, these clothes appear to be fairly straightforward, but it is their wanton leanness and aloof aura that make them a harbinger of exhilarating threat.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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