The models were all but erased on the John Rocha runway; in their place stood phantasmagoric creatures that looked like they’d be quite at home haunting the moors of Ireland. In this black-dominated show, volumes and proportions were blown out and contrasted creating a visually odd, but ultimately stunning, presentation. Moody, gothic, and appealing, John Rocha creates a vision of portention and distant beauty. Bunchy, crunchy crinoline dresses launched the collection, their crazy volumes evoking a new silhouette. This show was all about the heavy-on-top-light-on-the-bottom looks, or more accurately, there was almost nothing down below. Models were either barelegged or wearing see-through skirts or dresses that left little to the imagination. Up top was a different story, as maxi-coats and jackets completed the looks. One shaggy Mongolian fur dress married both ideas as the fur was bisected in wide swaths by black sheer shapes. A latticework skirt and a few shredded pieces (most notably a black floor-length dress that looks like it had been gnawed on by moths for the last decade) added an unfinished feel to the collection. Lean, revealing dresses at the end of the show placed wavy strips of color side-by-side for a neat take on paneling. This off-the-cuff cool and dark collection is going to go far in keeping Rocha in the LFW spotlight.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway