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Thursday, September 15, 2011

New York Fashion Week Coverage

Theyskens' Theory Spring 2012

No longer just Theory, this label is now known as Theyksens’ Theory after it managed to scoop Olivier Theyksens from Nina Ricci. Theyksens’ career is a study in fashion finery in reverse. At Rochas he did top-notch couture, at Nina Ricci he did scaled back luxury and finally, at Theory he is working his signature magic on smart, urban, wearable attire. Yet, as his designs become more casual and relaxed, his talent grows.

The urban aspect of his SS12 collection comes from Theyksens’ relocation to New York City. The Big Apple tends to heavily influence its designers, who draw much inspiration from the streets, and it appears to have had the same effect on Theyksens. Theyksens’ Theory paired mesh tops with jacquard jackets and pegged metallic trousers, anoraks with button-down dresses, and cropped blazers with oversized Bermuda shorts.

The models came down the runway with bare, beautiful faces, loose hair, and hands folded into their pockets. It was for this reason that this collection, though it looks tough and savvy, was very much imbued with a shy, sensual romance fit for a modern day Ophelia.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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