Saturday, February 11, 2012

New York Fashion Week Coverage

Jason Wu Fall 2012

There was a piercing oddity to Jason Wu’s China-inspired collection, but it underscored the idea that the designer’s youth has nothing to do with his prowess.

Here, he tackles an entire country, an Empire, a dynasty. And he does it deftly. We may know Jason Wu because of his pretty prints, his skill at tailoring, and his ability to make the First Lady look radiant, but Wu has got more going for him than slick consumer-friendly pieces. This collection is proof.

For fall/winter 2012, Wu moves through many Chinese epochs. The first displays a military take, with top-heavy jackets, strong shoulders, tiny waists, and a controlled, hemmed-in atmospheric quality to the presentation. Then came a twist on Chinese peasant garb (which sparkled with some truly ornate baroque embroidery). Wu finishes the collection with sleek modernist pieces in eye-popping, theatrical colors. These looks come from when China was first exposed to the public stage in the 40s after they opened their borders to the world for the first time. It was like a costume drama in three distinct acts, but the characters kept to their marks, and the set was resplendent. Everyone left happy, and with renewed faith in the skills of this designer.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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