Part of the art of seduction is in not revealing too much too quickly. Thakoon’s inspiration – which draws on The Hoerengracht Dutch red-light district installation by Ed and Nancy Kienholz – knows the power of keeping some things hidden. What he disguises in this collection is the female figure, by adding padding to the hips and shoulders to exaggerate the hourglass silhouette. Cutting his patterns into blunter shapes and giving many of the skirts paper bag waists achieves a deft swerve around a straightforwardly sensual collection. Small tailoring quirks and swirling prints prove a keen artistic intelligence at work here. With red lips, coiffed hair, and a few 50s-inspired pieces in the mix, we get a sense that Thakoon is pulling a style power play – one half modish aloofness, the other half full-time seductress.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway