Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Paris Fashion Week Coverage
Emanuel Ungaro Spring 2012
It is not necessary to discuss the politics of the fashion industry in order to review a collection. However, it often aids the reader by laying a foundation as to why a collection might be so different than previous ones. Emanuel Ungaro is undergoing a massive change. The house has a new designer, Jeanne Labib-Lamour, but previous designer Giles Deacon just left. Furthermore, this collection wasn’t borne solely at the hands of Labib-Lamour or Deacon, but was “the result of conscientious teamwork” (whatever that means).
If Ungaro’s collection looks like a “Best Of” all of the Fashion Weeks from this season combined (predictable peplum, slits, sheer, one-shoulder looks, slim belts, brocade, etc.), that’s because it is. A palette of rich blues, purples, and reds ruled the runway in electrifying shades. Ruched jersey dresses and lean suits gave us some decent daywear and eveningwear looks. However, the decision to play it safe is understandable given the situation. If the exotic chemistry that combined to create those intoxicating prints on the Ungaro runway hadn’t occurred, this would have been a collection relegated to the bottom of the heap. Those prints saved the show.
written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway
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