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Monday, October 3, 2011

Paris Fashion Week Coverage

Givenchy Spring 2012

For a collection that didn’t beckon toward any marine colors, there is an undeniable undersea vibe on the Givenchy runway for Spring/Summer 2012. And, God, does the ocean landscape look good when Riccardo Tisci gets ahold of it. This collection transmits a powerfully sexy vibe, and with a stated influence like “mermaids and surfers” one can understand why. Any human (or humanoid) that can ride the waves and tame the sea possesses that one-with-nature confidence that looks good on anyone.

The aquatic influence is subtle and understated. Instead of obtrusive bits of costuming, Tisci prefers to let brilliant tailoring carry this collection. The best detail on the Givenchy runway was the phalanges of rippling folds, trimmed in sharkskin, eel and stingray that protruded from the fronts of form-fitting dresses. Oversized shark tooth necklaces and shark tooth heels provided additional hints as to the origins of these looks, but they’re far removed from their starting point and dressed up in couture finery. Twin tails that hang from the hems of several skirts are suggestive of a mermaid cousin, for instance.

The most jawdropping looks came, not at the end, but smack in the middle of the show: mesmerizing, coruscated blasts of silver radiance came down the runway in the form of pantsuits as hot as molten lava. These suits, and the rock and roll suits showed near the beginning in shades of blush pink and taupe, are the foundation Tisci built his reputation on: a basic piece, turned into something extraordinary.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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