Sunday, October 2, 2011

Paris Fashion Week Coverage

Haider Ackermann Spring 2012

Haider Ackermann, boy wonder of the fashion world, was a name frequently bandied about as possible prince to the Dior throne. The label ultimately decided against him because he’s “too edgy.” That backhanded compliment did not discourage Ackermann from excelling at his craft – in particular his ability to consistently find a new menswear silhouette every season. However, Ackermann –known for his moody, innovative, deconstructivist aesthetic – did a 180 this season. He’s entering new territory, possibly signaling a simultaneous submergence in a transitory period that will put his draping skills in a league of their own.

The story on his Spring/Summer 2012 runway seemed to be a richly saturated palette of colors in silks and sari material that start off sophisticated and end up running amok – defying convention and, at times, description. The big-shouldered, tapering pantsuits that launch the show have a nostalgic 90s feel, but quickly abandon yesteryear for the horizon of tomorrow. His obsession with new draping techniques occasionally get the better of him by resulting in ensembles that are hard to understand. For instance, the hooded, sheer dress/vest combo made us scratch our heads wondering if they were separate pieces or part of a single unit. The limp dusters that fell off the model’s shoulders (on purpose) looked languidly cool, but his swaddled layering techniques were a quizzical choice for Spring. Ackermann completely excelled at color pairing, which produced some gorgeous garb in hues of chartreuse, aqua, fuchsia, and tangerine. His exotic robes (inspired by Lord Byron) were more boudoir-wear than daywear. Jackets with loose collars that hung down in folds were some of the coolest single pieces on the Ackermann runway, and his decision to put every model in a colorful pair of flat, pointy brogues was another nod to his ahead-of-the-curve mentality.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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