Sunday, October 2, 2011

Paris Fashion Week Coverage

Lanvin Spring 2012

Lanvin’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection, better known as “The Last Temptation of Alber Elbaz”, told the story of an angel in hell, who later freed, returns to heaven. The show was heavy with moodiness, religiosity, and, ultimately, redemption. What starts out dark lightens up toward the end, but the final act leaves the audience with a bit of a puzzle on their hands.

The runway teems with powersuits that emphasize big shoulders and tiny waists. The palette is restricted to shades of black, gray, navy blue, white, and taupe, which adds to the somber ambience. Elbaz also works in some neat tailoring tricks in the form of cut-outs and oversized lapels. The outfits are accessorized with gaudy crosses and angel wing necklaces. When the angel leaves hell, her attire transforms into brilliantly-colored wrapped togas, diaphanous sheer gowns, and jewel and paillette-encrusted minidresses. The power suits get trimmer, but come outfitted in slithering serpentine prints, suggestive of the hiss of desire and sin that weaves its way into one of Lanvin’s sexier collections. The puzzle comes from the final look: Karlie Kloss trots out in a rose pink sheer dress and stands at the end of the runway in a pool of orange light. Did the angel fall from grace once again?

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway

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