Stefano Pilati is one Cool Hand Luke, constantly under the gun with the threat of his demise at the house of Laurent, but reliably delivering sensational collections, season after season. For Spring/Summer 2012, he trots through a gorgeous forest palette and plays with proportions for a nostalgic nod to classic YSL. Yet, the collection is still deeply imbued with the Pilati ethos. The trapeze coats, billowing dresses, ruffled lantern cuffs and angular jutting sleeves in this collection provided the exaggerated silhouette. The coats and capes signaled that this is springtime for cooler climes, while the palette of mint, royal purple, smoky navy blue, and white drenched this collection in an undeniable richness and depth. The primly tucked in scarf halter brought an edge of restrained femininity to the runway, but it was the shoes that the audience were the most moved by. They came in metal paneled brogue flats, platform cut-outs, and glittery heels in various shades of turquoise, gold, pink, and black. It might not be an exaggeration to say that the shoes on the YSL runway this season might be the single most desired item at all of Paris Fashion Week.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway