Elie Saab breaks up the typical radiantly charged atmosphere of his gown-laden collections with a darker, wickeder edge. While there are plenty of stunning, sparkling gowns that plunge at the neckline and ripple in the breeze of the catwalk, there were also some moody, inky black pieces that spoke of a darker side. His collection was entitled “Urban Elegance” and this two-word description is about as befitting as any. A slinky, elongated silhouette adorned the Saab runway, but it was tempered by sweeping black capes, belted wool trenches, and slim-cut fur toppers. The show opens with a look that is a bit of a surprise from Saab: a simple color-blocked felt wool suit. The blocking is repeated on ensuing looks, but as the presentation moves from daywear to evening, the clothes get far more lavish. Saab experiments with new techniques in knotting and draping which work to great effect on some of his neutral-colored day dresses. On one jacket/skirt combo he takes a flared shoulder and mimics the same sharpness in the flare of the skirt. Keen detailing is obviously at work here. Eveningwear is always Saab’s strong suit, and this show is no different. This time, gowns are drowned in sequins and their skirts are cut clear to the crotch. View this portion in motion and you’ll see the lovely movement of the dresses – a signature Saab bit of tailoring expertise. If Saab keeps blending high and low concepts like he did this time around, he’s going to open up his label for a whole new clamoring crowd of fans.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway