One does not need a fashion review to understand what Jean Paul Gaultier was going for on his Spring/Summer 2013 runway. He spoke his influence in no uncertain terms. The looks were screamingly obvious: Grace Jones, David Bowie, Boy George, Madonna, Michael Jackson, and Cyndi Lauper! This tribute to 80s pop icons is part of what Jean Paul Gaultier does best, couture kitsch, but don’t mistake this for the designer having a good old laugh at everyone’s expense. Beyond the surface, this collection was absolutely packed with gorgeous, wearable pieces that will turn any fan of the icon into a fan of the brand.

What Gaultier is ultimately offering is a meta-script for diversity, from the strong-shouldered, hyper-masculine pantsuits sported by the Grace Jones lookalikes and the skintight Ziggy Stardust jumpsuits to the silk Cyndi varsity jackets and the strappy mesh slip dresses that channeled young Madonna. Denim suits, safari jackets, shock-of-fringe knit gowns, pilot caps, and more – there were a hundred beautiful takeaways from this collection. Without having it all tied up in a neat neon 80s bow, there is no way JPG would have gotten away with such an erratic display. Instead, he made the message the surface that you had to accept before getting down to the really good stuff, the actual clothes.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRUNWAY