Loewe’s collection was dark, but not moody, relying on a palette of glossy black calfskin leathers to accomplish Stuart Vevers’ equestrian vision. Though there were a few pops of white, muted royal purples, and blasts of pink, it stuck to a noir palette. Because of the tailored fit of these clothes, Loewe has ensured with its all-black palette to be one of the more flattering collections around, for the simple fact that it will make women look good. A varsity jacket with leather sleeves, paired with a marbled leather skirt, opens the show. It is followed quickly by a knit blouse and wool skirt. Cropped riding breeches are the only bottoms offered not made of leather. Especially keen are his fur coats with flyaway leather collars and laser cut leather skirts that have an almost fetishistic appeal to them. That shaggy pink dress looked like the Mahna Mahna puppet from Sesame Street, and seemed a little out of place in this collection. His last looks were a leather criss-cross cape trimmed in white and a series of leather trench dresses and outerwear that were carved with fake pockets and buttons – a clever trick of the eye. Vevers dodges through a maze of coed, equestrian, and high-end luxury demands to settle on a collection that is rich in texture, but low on variety.

written by GRACE GORDON|photos: courtesy of GoRunway