Monday, July 4, 2011
5 Minutes With...
Rupert Sanderson
Rupert Sanderson is a thinking woman's shoe designer who distills his minimalist ethos into each pair he creates. In addition to being something of an autodidact, Sanderson is a writer for British Vogue, a Pinter appreciator, and a design enthusiast. With an eye for sculpture, architecture, and art, Sanderson brings an elevated sense of intelligence to the shoes he crafts. We were lucky enough to sit down with him for five minutes to pick his brain about his life, latest collections, influences, and his particular creative process. HOW DID YOU START OUT IN THE INDUSTRY?
I was a very late starter actually, as I originally worked in advertising. After quitting my job, I enrolled at Cordwainers College – part of the London College of Fashion – and learnt how to make shoes. In the summer break, I rode my motorbike around Italy, visiting as many tanneries and shoe factories as possible, getting lots of first-hand experience.
HOW HAVE YOU EVOLVED AS A DESIGNER?
I have always taken a really minimalist approach to my designs, so in this sense it’s the use of minimalism that I’ve re-worked and evolved over the years. From sculptured heels to set-back graphic heels. From soft cut-out details to sharper edging.
YOU’VE WORKED FOR THE LIKES OF SERGIO ROSSI AND BRUNI MAGLI IN THE PAST. HOW DID THOSE EXPERIENCES SHAPE YOU AS A DESIGNER?
I was really lucky to have worked for those guys when the original families were still running their businesses (basically, before they were bought out by the larger luxury goods companies). Working with them really put me in touch with the close-knit Italian shoe making community.
WHICH TYPE OF WOMAN DO YOU BASE YOUR DESIGNS ON?
I don’t base my designs on a particular woman as such, but I believe the Rupert Sanderson woman to definitely be a ‘woman of substance’ – someone who knows her own mind and who isn’t bound by the rulemakers of fashion.
WHICH PIECE FROM YOUR FW11 COLLECTION IS YOUR FAVORITE AND ARE YOU PROUDEST OF?
The style Alvis is my favorite. I love how simple and elegant the style is. The short pointed toe and cut-out side keep the style really fresh and the curvy heel has a certain 1960s appeal to it in the silhouette.
IF YOU WEREN'T A DESIGNER, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?
I would still do something design based where I had the freedom to be creative. Maybe an architect.
WHAT'S THE BEST PART ABOUT YOUR JOB?
The freedom to think outside the box. I also love working with my small but brilliant team.
OTHER THAN YOURSELF, WHO IS YOUR FAVORITE SHOE DESIGNER?
I’m a fan of Roger Vivier – in fact I have bought a few pairs of his shoes for my wife.
AT AGE SEVEN, YOU WANTED TO BE…
A boat designer!
WHAT SPARKS THE CREATIVE PROCESS?
Eating Jaffa Cakes.
WHAT'S NEXT FOR RUPERT SANDERSON?
We have lots of exciting plans set for our 10-year anniversary celebrations in November. We're designing shoes for Osman’s SS12 show, and working with Parisian Haute Couturist, Maxime Simoens.
CURRENT OBSESSION?
Kristin Scott-Thomas. Her current performance in Pinter’s play "Betrayal" (showing at the Comedy Theatre in London until August) is mind-blowing. She’s an outstanding artist.
IF MONEY WERE NO OBJECT…
I’d buy a jet and learn how to fly it. It would stop me from being late or missing my flights all the time!
Rupert Sanderson SS11 shoes are available at Symphony, The Dubai Mall. Tel +971 4 330 8050.
interviewed by CAROLINE SEIF|edited by HALEH NIA
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