by Grace Gordon

Burberry’s latest collection signaled in many ways an overt scaling back by the beloved design house. While the collection was as rich as ever, there was no studded, rock-and-roll glam like there was last season. This season focused almost entirely on outerwear in a diverse range of shapes, sizes and shades.

The show began with a march of coats in bright, solid colors: tangerine, raspberry, and chartreuse. Next up was a stiff, structured cape that opened like an umbrella. Snug, toggle-closure military coats took to the stage after that in a variety of shades. What followed was a range of tartans, furs, and trenches all focused to the extreme on the area of outerwear. Sleeves and shoulders were a major focus of this collection. Here, Burberry showcased bishop sleeves, virago sleeves, and kimono sleeves to dramatic effect. Epaulettes decorated the shoulders of many coats and jackets.

Every outfit was paired with matching bags in classic Burberry check with corresponding colors of trim (tangerine trim for the tangerine coat, and so on). The bags themselves were a massive undertaking, but if any design house was capable of succeeding, it’s Burberry. Christopher Bailey’s cow-print hats gave each look a cheeky aura.

The immense range of coats and accessories that Burberry churned out for fall is astonishing. Couple that with the fact that they simulcast the show to screens at London’s Piccadilly Circus and streamed it live online, and you are left with an overwhelming sense of how keen and progressive the Burberry Prorsum brand really is.