WGSN
With each collection for Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy ensures a legacy of superlative design abilities, but his latest sees him at his most self-assured.
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Hey, Siri, give me 10,000 synonyms for incredible.
With each collection for Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy ensures a legacy of superlative design abilities, but his latest sees him at his most self-assured. The foundation has been laid: craftsmanship, intelligent look-twice details, quiet luxury. At Bottega Fall/Winter 2023, he erects, brick by brick, a more experimental structure. Everything we love about Bottega is there, but more: more beautiful, more interesting, more daring. Once again there are more casual looks that are actually intricately carved of leather, there is more fashion fantasy that is somehow instantly accessible, and there is more artistry but delivered in relatable forms.
Blazy’s starting point for the collection was the street, the ultimate democratizer. It’s where everyone has to be in order to arrive. He wasn’t thinking about streetwear though, but random and special encounters of style you might find when rounding a corner. This means a confrontation of characters, rather than an imposed monovision. I don’t know what streets Blazy is regularly wandering, but I’ve never seen such a fantastic array of looks anywhere before.
WGSN
There were girls in sheer slip dresses and sock boots, women in lace-appointed summery separates, and boys in tobacco-colored reptilian coats inset with solid baby blue paneling. With 81 looks in total, one had the chance to fall in love again and again, first with a fitted leather coat-dress with a cropped top portion, another time with an A-line deep cherry leather sleeveless top with a matching skirt, again with a fiery orange-red dress with a rolled neckline and pannier hips, and once more with a monochrome coat that degraded into a fringe. Textures abounded from scaly knits, ostrich skins, electrified feather accents, and shingled leathers. Some looks were sinuous and multi-colored like a feathery venomous snake, and others featured a jut of waterfall pleats, knotted closures, or patchworked textiles.
And the accessories! They deserve their own essay. There were intrecciato woven thigh-high boots and egg-shaped handbags, jellied and foiled clogs, wraparound sandals decorated with hardware, and so much more.
With the risk of sounding hyperbolic, Blazy doesn’t miss. His third runway show is a triumph.
