Fendi was the final major house on the Spring 2023 Couture calendar this season, and wound things down with the surprising transmutation of underwear into eveningwear.
Fendi was the final major house on the Spring 2023 Couture calendar this season, and wound things down with the surprising transmutation of underwear into eveningwear. In a bleach white oval room treated with a lighting scape that continuously changed colors and supported by a thumping industrial score, the Fendi Spring 2023 Couture collection as much more intimate than the stark setting would suggest.
Boudoir elements included slim slips trimmed in lace, and sheer bralettes peeking from beneath strapless gowns. Everything was imbued with an ephemeral shimmer, done in muted pastels and gleaming metallics that brought dimensionality to the looks. “This season, I wanted to concentrate on the techniques and craft of couture, with the lightness, fluidity, and attitude of today,” Creative Director Kim Jones described in the show notes.
Yet, despite its modern proposition for eveningwear, Fendi’s couture collection had something of Roman antiquity to it. Recalling Roman goddesses, Jones employed a beautiful motif in which a base column dress was looped and draped with a swath of fabric, held in position with knots and ties. Similar versions featured gauzy dresses worn with arm attachments that flowed down the back like capes.
There was a tension between being covered up and exposed, with some dresses featuring delicate, strategically placed appliqués and others done in solid fabrics. With haute couture being a long made-to-measure process involving multiple fittings, this tension offered subtle commentary on the intimacy of couture between the maker and the wearer – an aspect of couture that so few are privy to.